Monday 8 July 2013

My Flight from Bogota

I try to maintain chronological order in my posts by skipping as little as possible. Maybe it’s my fecklessness or maybe it is because I am preoccupied with more the ultimately more pressing matters in my life. Regardless, I tend to post a lot then slack off. This is not to say I do not write. I write all the time. But, when it comes to asking people to read what I write, I get anxious about decorating and dressing it up to convince myself that people can actually read it (let alone enjoy it). I could tell tales of dancing Salsa with Colombian babes, harrowing late night pickup rides through the middle of the desert to far-off beaches, or days of relaxing on golden sands of paradise on the Caribbean. But, those will have to wait for another day. To end this little blog recession that has been ailing me lately, I will begin by recounting the end of my South American journey:

I stepped out of the hostel glad to see the sun had not fought through the clouds yet. Was it clouds or was it smog? Being in Bogota, it was difficult to distinguish between the two. It had already been a frantic morning as goodbyes had been said and future plans had been mentioned. Two old friends made it to Colombia just days before, beginning a long journey just as I was ending mine. My mind still perplexed and muddled from the lingering effects of my last night out. One would think scheduling a midday flight would have alleviated such worries. It’s a difficult thing to get trapped in goodbyes when you feel the hellos have just been said – an experience I’ve come to know too well as of late. Regardless, the hope and promise of reunion, whenever it may occur, kept my mind occupied as I made my way into the world.

I knew I was late. But still, I knew I would need something to eat before the airport – my principles force me to avoid spending money in airports at all costs. My mouth was dry like desert sand, so I had to find water, as well. The streets were oddly, but eerily quiet for this late in the morning. I realized I wasn’t choking on bus exhaust nor dodging motorcycles – the streets of La Candelaria were completely empty. As it turned out, I was lucky to find anything open at all. It was Colombian Labor Day. My first thought when I realized how empty the streets were: I hope taxi drivers don’t celebrate Labor Day. I had walked already a handful of blocks and seen street demonstrations and scores of people milling about. But not one taxi (on streets usually overcrowded with taxis). I keep walking towards hopefully busier parts of the city. On avenues typically lined with cars, trucks, and taxis, I find hundreds of people lined up to take pictures of street performers doing silly dances and obscure poses. I generally try to avoid walking around too much while carrying my backpack, in which the contents constitute my life. And especially not through big crowds.

At the sight of riot police (rows of black figures, assumed to be humans, covered in helmets and armor and carrying batons and shields) one could either be relieved that there is some form of institutional protection from would-be-thieves or vehemently worried about walking through a situation that necessitates riot police. I felt the latter. Vehement worry turns to outright fear as I saw people hustling past the rows of riot police, towards me, with scarves and sleeves covering their mouths. Panicked expressions flood their faces. And I wonder, with the bewilderment that I feel rising in my stomach, what my face looks like. Then it starts to burn. My nose, my throat, my eyes. And with nothing to cover my face, I started to feel wheezy and wobbly. I thought to myself, ‘You have a plane to catch, you have all your personal belongings on your back, and this is not the place to pass out.’ So, I gathered myself and tried to make it the through the invisible poison as quickly as possible. I couldn’t make out any sort of disruption that might have warranted the use of tear gas or pepper spray, whichever it was. So I kept walking.


Eventually, I walked past the grasps of the poison, everyone else seemingly oblivious to the irritating fumes behind me. I maintained consciousness and returned my scattered thoughts to my original goal of finding a taxi. I pressed on through a few blocks of vacant streets. Finally, the main thoroughfare appeared with the normal sight and sounds of busses rumbling and cars honking. I saw several taxis hurry past. All full. Finally, I catch the attention of one driver stopped at the intersection. So I scramble across the lanes of traffic just in time to hop in as the light changes to green. As I shut the door I told the driver that I am headed for the airport, and suddenly my body realizes it can calm down. I still felt the irritation of the gas on my throat, but my ears recognized just how quiet the taxi is. Calmly I asked for the time and let the driver know I was in a hurry. There is nothing like a hectic hike through Bogota and its toxic, crowd-suppressing gases to clear even the deadliest of hangovers. And I was off.